Hurricane waves make for the best body surfing! And a good heart racing workout for me on the beach :)
Good practice, I guess, for watching my kids take the risks they will take all their lives as they live and learn. It is hard to watch them give of themselves, and not count the risks. They wholly love their friends, their family and the gifts of the Universe as they are presented.
They dive right in.
They might get hurt.
But, as I see it, my job is to watch and advise. I would rather have them dive in and learn from the world. I don't want them to be cautious because of *my* fear. That would hurt them in more ways than a few bumps and bruises from being tossed to the shore by a big old wave.
Plus, I am waiting here, on shore, to help with a big sun warmed blanket and kisses and hugs, and yes, even CPR and lifesaving training.